Rigging Instructions
From Mystereowners
Contents |
Cord List
The following is a cord list from Mystere and modified by Mike Fahle.
Standard Rigging/Required Additions
First, lay out all parts on hard surface floor and check against printed inventory. Assembly requires 3-4 people. Tools needed: 9/16" and 1/2" socket wrenches, Small flat head screwdriver, sharp knife, cat-key or pliers, silicone spray, riggers tape.
Important: Before or after installation, tape every thimble on the wire rigging with riggers tape (available from West Marine). Each sleeve has wire ends protruding and are very sharp. Failure to do so will almost guarantee a torn spinnaker on the first sail. See Picture at mast tang.
Hull /Tramp/Beams
- Spray Sail-Kote or Silicone lubricant into front beam slot and metal tracks down each inside hull.
- Slide forward edge of trampoline into front beam slot. Filing the entry hole will make this easier. Make sure the yellow polypro bolt rope does not get pulled out of the tramp. Picture of Yves and assistant doing installation.
- There are 4 short hull bolts and 4 long. The short (3/8 x 4 1/2") are the front, long (3/8 x 5") are the rear. On each bolt place the cupped washer with "cup" facing upward. On the inner rear bolt, place the 2 inch aluminum block, long edge facing outward. On the outer rear bolts, place the 1 inch aluminum block. Insert beam caps.
- Bolt front and rear beam to starboard hull.
- Slide traveler onto rear beam with cleat facing forward. Make sure not to drop the nylon "bearings".
- Bolt rear beam to port hull, do not attach front beam yet.
- With one person on each track and one feeding tramp from front, slide tramp bolt rope into track on each hull. Keep tramp even on each side to make it easier.
- With hip against port hull in front of front beam, push against the mast base until holes line up. Insert front port beam bolts.
- Insert 1/2 inch bar into rear tramp. Pushing toward the front of the tramp in the slot will allow easy entry.
- Lace tramp to rear beam.
- Re-check tightness on each bolt.
- Put black rubber caps on each bolt.
- Attach front cross-bar and bridles using the bolt (comes threaded in hull, 1/2" socket). The "bump" on the crossbar ends faces down. Some outward pressure on the hulls may be necessary to line up bolts.
Mast/Running Rigging
Coming soon.
Snuffer
The spinnaker pole did not come with bridle wires to secure the front of the pole (tip of the snuffer). You can make a stainless wire set from West Marine for $24. To make a set for yourself follow these directions. You could also use line in place of stainless wire.
- Parts needed:
- (4) Thimble-1/8 SS part 126763 price 1.49 each
- (4) Sleeve-3/32 part 115063 price .31 each
- 11.3 feet Wire-SS 3/32 7x19 part 119214 .59/ft.
- (2) Shackle-Bow STD 5/32 part 179721 $4.99 each
- Measure 5'5" or 65 inches long from outside tip of thimble to outside tip of thimble. This measurement doesn't have to be exact since you will be securing with the blue line through the end of the snuffer. They do need to be the same length.
- Secure each bridle to the loops bolted to the front of the bow using the bow shackle (where your forestay bridle is located). (Picture of attachment) This way you can remove the bridle when not using the spinnaker. Attach the forward end of the bridles to the snuffer tip blue rope by feeding the bitter end through the two thimbles and cinching it tight, even a bit of prebend in the pole. (Picture of snuffer tip) This will prevent the pole from moving side to side and from coming off the post on the front beam.
Attach pole, snuffer and bag as shown in pictures:
- At Bridle.
- At mast base. Notice the shock cord holding the bag toward the mast base.
- At snuffer end (stock config). Notice the blue line however realize that this does not include the bridles above.
Spinnaker Halyard/Sheets
The block at the top of the mast should be a swiveling block. Without a swivel, the halyard will tangle and limit your ability to take down the spinnaker. You have two options outlined below. The advantage of Option 2 is that you run less danger of damaging your mast and are not required to have a rivet gun. Option 1 is cheaper if you use existing block.
- Option 1: Drill out the rivets on the eye-strap from the mast, remove the block. Replace the eye-strap with rivets. Do not use steel rivets (use stainless or . Be sure to seal the rivets with silicone sealant to prevent mast leakage. Now either replace with a swivel block or attach existing block with a short high strength line. Price $2 to $12.
- Option 2: Using a hacksaw, cut thought the existing block and discard. Replace with a swivel block and shackle. Price $8 to $12. (Picture of replaced block, cut block)
To attach spinnaker sheets, feed sheet through blocks on rear beam. Make sure arrows on blocks are facing inboard (update... this was backwards in previous revisions). Sheets should be outside of everything... trapeze wires, side stays, and in front of forestay. Insert sheets into clew of spinnaker from opposite sides and tie figure 8 knots (stopper knots). Tying a bowline or other knot puts more weight on the clew of the spinnaker and will hinder light-air performance.
Main Halyard / Main Sheet
There is a small set screw on the side of your mainsheet lower block (the one with the cam cleat). Loosen this screw and raise the angle of the cam cleat to approximately 15-20 degrees above horizontal. Re-tighten the screw. This will allow easier uncleating of the mainsheet under load.
Harken Problem Notice: Many have tried to adjust the cleat angle on the mainsheet block but found either the screw backed-out OK and would not tighten or the screw would not back out at all. Call Harken, (262) 691-3320 and explain what happened and asked for a replacement. All reps should now be aware of this by now. Anne Hartleip, (pictured in row two, page 4 of the 2001 Harken catalog) handles the Mystere account and was the first to be aware of this problem. Replacement block (#2648 - page 12) (link to Harken catalog part).
Jib Halyard/Sheets
Coming soon
Trapeze
Coming soon
Optional Improvements
Second Trapeze
Drill front beam caps and feed shock cord through for retractor on forward trapeze wires. (Picture of European boat complete.)
Move Main Trapeze Outboard to clear tramp
Attach small fairlead to hull using screws and lead shock cord through with stopper ball. This clears the tramp for easier movement on the deck, especially when setting chute and takedowns. (Picture of complete installation and parts)
Attach Windex Sport masthead wind indicator
With the chute on the boat, a bridle fly is no longer an option. Mast head indicators are better anyway. Attach the mount on the flat tab at top of mast. The best solution is to drill/tap so that the part can be replaced. These often get damaged during capsizes in shallow water or trailer fumbles. Note that the mount can be placed at an angle and the fly bent to vertical to avoid the main halyard block. (Picture of complete installation, notice screw locations) (Another picture, poor quality though.)
Continuous Halyard/Retrieval Line
There are some big, really big advantages to running a continuous halyard. You will have zero deck clutter and when you pop the halyard, the head pulling from the mast will pull the retrieval line and suck the spinnaker up to the end of the pole... a few more tugs and it is in the bag.
- Use Marlow 3/16 or equivalent stiff, light line. This is the same as the I20. Purchase 70 feet, don't short yourself here.
- Attach a small bullet block to a 18 inch piece of the 3/16 above. Feed through the rear of the tramp to the eye-strap on for the traveler. (Picture of tramp rear block)
- It is easiest to lay the boat on its side for the first try at this.
- Temporarily tie one end of halyard to tip of snuffer; feed through block at top of mast; down the mast and through the turning block and cleat; back to the rear beam bullet block; forward and into back grommet of snuffer bag; out the front and through the lower patch webbing (do not tie); up to the top patch webbing and tie with bowline. (Picture of line configuration at front beam)
- Tie tack to tack line on snuffer end.
- Attach halyard from top of mast to head.
- Hoist spinnaker.
- Release halyard and pull retrieval end of halyard until spinnaker is completely in sock.
- Adjust halyard length (without cutting) until you have a workable length for your preference. Sail several times in varying wind conditions before you actually cut the final length.
Rudder Improvements
Contribution and Photos by Dave Fort
Problem 1 - Rudders don't kick up
Description: Rudders don't kick up - even if spring tension is loose or even removed.
Cause: The black cam that retains the stainless bar in the locked position does not rotate back far enough to allow the bar to come out. The cam binds on the casting.
Other Symptoms: back bottom corner of black cam has chips out of it.
Solution: grind out casting in region shown in this photo. I also lubed everything and also wrapped the adjusting screw with many layers of teflon tape to make it more reluctant to turn.
Another Solution: On one of my kick up mechanisms, there is enough space surrounding the spring that the spring can get pushed sideways by the corner of the cam rather than depressed. This causes the cam to bind. I don't know if it binds soon enough to cause a problem, but since it wouldn't open as far as the other 3 rudders, i shaved the corner off the cam, and that seems to fix it. Note also that this problem seemed to only manifest when spring tension is very light. Cranking in the adjusting screw seems to keep the spring positioned better.
You can see if your rudder is having this problem by manually depressing the black plastic cam and look in the trailing edge to see what is happening with the spring. There was also a click sound when the spring snapped from under the cam to in front of it.
In any case, here is the old and new outline of the rudder cam: drawing
Problem 2 - Gouging rudder head
Description: Gouging top of rudder head as in this photo
Cause: Many of the castings (3 out of 4 in my case) have a protrusion, which is probably not supposed to be there, which pokes into the top of the rudder if the blade comes up too high.
Solution: This solution comes from Joe Tracy. File or hacksaw off the protrusion as shown in this photo. On some of the castings, you can file far enough so that the 2 castings hit each other before the casting bites a chunk out of the rudder, but on some of my castings i couldn't quite go that far. In any case, removing the pointy part will spread the force over a larger area, which will prevent taking a bite out unless you whack it really hard. If you are still paranoid, glue some rubber bumpers in there somehow (selection of appropriate adhesive and bumper left to the reader).
Shroud Repair
Contribution and Photos by Mike Fahle
These two photos show the rivet that came out of my shroud chainplate or tang where it is attached to the hull and what I did to reattach it. I used a drill, a thread tap, and a 5/8" bolt to replace the 1/4" rivet that pulled out, apparently because it was not long enough to bulge out of the other side of the aluminum plate that is on the inside of the fiberglass hull.
Picture of Shroud rivet loosening
All owners could check for similar problems before the chainplate/tang pulls out and the rig falls down. This is an easy, inexpensive way to fix it if they find a problem before serious injury or damage occurs.
A rig fell down because one of the bridle bolts came out of the top of the bow. Another had a bolt that was too short to reach the (overly) recessed aluminum plate on one of his hulls and had to replace it with a longer bolt. Everyone should check this latter problem on their boat as well. This is an excellent place to apply some Loctite for bolts (removable with tools) or equivalent after they are sure the bolts are long enough to make good thread contact.
